Rules

Limited Weld Two Man Compact Team Class

1. Front wheel drive only. Wheelbase must be 108 inches or less. NO EXCEPTIONS!

2. No four-wheel drive vehicles.

3. NO moving/bending a stock or aftermarket component to shorten wheelbase.

4. Must be powered by four or six cylinder engine

5. All lines under the car must be steel lines or if running rubber lines they must be inside of the car.

6. No aftermarket or homemade cradle or extreme cradle or pulley protector. You are allowed after market pedals and shifters, however they MAY NOT strengthen the car in any way shape or form.

7. Battery may be moved, but must be securely fastened and covered in the passenger compartment. MAXIMUM OF TWO AUTOMOBILE TYPE BATTERIES ALLOWED. Battery and gas tank must be tight when coming through the inspection line or you won't be inspected.

8. Any type automotive radiator may be used but must be mounted in stock position. NO RESERVE TANKS.

HOODS, TRUNKS AND BODY

HOODS MUST BE OPEN AT INSPECTION! So do not come to the inspection line with the hood bolted down…Thank you.

1. HOODS: must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor – Not directly on top of the carburetor. IF HOOD IS REMOVED, EITHER FAN BLADE MUST BE REMOVED OR FAN BELT MUST BE CUT.

2. NO SECOND ALL THREAD WELDED TO SIDE OF THE FRAME AND RAN THROUGH THE AT MID POINT OF THE HOOD.

3. On all cars, hoods, trunks, and tailgates may be secured with the following method:

A. on front of car, two pieces of 1 inch all thread, NO SLEEVING, Can have a 4” or less spacer free floating or welded between core support/unibody and the Subframe, with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, all threads MUST be mounted outboard of the radiator. In addition to all threads, six (6) 1 inch O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, or you may use angle iron back to back with a bolt through it. Angle iron cannot be more than 3/16 thick or longer than 6 inches. Three on each side of the car, a total of six. Total of 6 bolts and 2 up front all threads holding the hood down. A maximum of 20 bolts 3/8 inch or smaller are allowed to bolt together hood seams.

B.TRUNK 4 pieces of 5/8 inch all thread, with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, all threads may be mounted through deck lid and frame anywhere in trunk, can be welded to the frame or in body mount holes. In addition to all threads, you may weld the trunk 5 on 5 off, Straps should not be larger than ¼” thick or 4 inches wide or six (6) 1 inch O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, or 10 3/8” bolts in the drip rail, not both one or the other and any amount of wire or cable. If the trunk is welded it must have a 12” hole in the trunk lid. On station wagons two pieces of 1 inch all thread, with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, all threads may be used in the rear through roof and stock body mount replacing existing bolt.

C.TAILGATE weld 5 on 5 off, Straps should not be larger than ¼” thick or 4 inches wide or six (6) 1-inches O.D. bolts with a washer no larger than six (6) inches O.D. and 3/8 inch thick, and any amount of wire or cable. YOU CAN WELD WASHERS (no bigger than 5/8 washer and must be at least 12” apart) TO THE BODY TO RUN WIRE THROUGH.

4. You may have a rear window bar 2”X2”X1/4” MAX. IN SIZE, 6” max. on roof 4”X4”X1/4” FLAT PLATE TO ATTACH TO THIS BAR TOP AND BOTTOM and must be centered on front side drip rail on trunk no further back (2” on each side). Weld to the strapping on your trunk. There must be 6” minimum distance (gap) from the top of this bar on the roof and halo bar…. This is the only location allowed for this bar.

5. Front radiator screen maximum thickness ¼”, bolted utilizing 4 ⅜ bolts with store bought hardware or 6 1”x1/2” welds.

6. Fenders may be bolted together with 3/8 inch bolts or smaller with 3/8 inch or smaller washers only. A maximum of 10 bolts per fender.

7. All doors may be welded (Outside of body only), chained or wired. Straps cannot be larger than ¼” thick and 4 inches wide on the door shell (vertical) and 2 inches wide on the window frame. You may beat the top of the doors down and may tack them in three places with a maximum of 1” weld each.

8. No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.

9. No Rust repair/body patching, NO EXCEPTIONS!!!

10. You may crease/enhance sheet metal body panels but do not fold and weld. No extra metal may be added.

11. NO OTHER BODY WELDS OTHER THAN WHAT IS LISTED ABOVE. THIS INCLUDES BODY SEAMS ANYWHERE ON THE CAR.

12. ALL SUNROOFS MUST BE COVERED WITH A THIN SHEET OF METAL, I.E. WELDED OR BOLTED (WITH BOLT HEAD INSIDE THE CAR) OR RIVETED. No #9 wire or chain to accomplish this will be allowed.

BODY MOUNTS

1. All body mount bolts may be replaced with 1/2 inch O.D. bolts with a stamped washer. Do not take them out and place the body on frame. If replaced, a gap of 1” minimum is mandatory between body and frame. You may replace it with a stack of washers, or one piece of anything solid, as long as it is about the same diameter as the factory bushing. Do NOT crush factory body bushings. Body mount bolts inside passenger compartments that are close together may have one washer six (6) inches x twelve (12) inches, must have two (2) or more body mount bolts through washer. You may add two (2) additional body mount bolts per side inside the passenger compartment. All all-threads MUST have nuts on top and bottom and NO welds.

2. A minimum of one chain or wire running from the outside (top) of roof down to the cowl or BAR DOWN TO DASH BAR OF CAGE on the front window is MANDATORY for safety. Maximum of two. IF USING METAL STRAPS MAX. SIZE 2” WIDE X ¼” THICK, 12” ID APART. CAN GO TO FRONT DASH BAR OR COWL THEN TO TOP LIP AREA OF WINDSHIELD ONLY.

3. NO WELDING THE K MEMBER TO THE BODY, YOU ARE ALLOWED TO REMOVE THE FRONT BODY MOUNT SPACER , THIS WHERE YOUR FRONT ALL THREAD WOULD GO AND SUCK THE BODY DOWN TO THE K MEMBER

CAGE AND HALO BARS

1. All driver and passenger doors may be reinforced. You should have a six (6)-point cage, MINIMUM OF A 4PT. CAGE. cross bars may be run as follows, one across dash, one behind front seats, and one in rear seat area, 3rd bar must stay inside of interior of rear drivers compartment nothing past front of package tray. Nothing can be added to the bottom of this bar.

2. You can run four (4) down tubes, two (2) per side. 2 of these down tubes must be mounted mandatory in the following way on each side, 1 down tube must be to flat part of the frame/unibody no further forward than the inner front door seam, with a max distance of 2’ from the same measuring point. Lower door bars are allowed between down tubes that must be 6 inches or more above the top of the frame. NOTHING OUT OF DRIVERS’ COMPARTMENT. You can have a steel plate between the cage and front doors. Must be securely fastened to the cage. Front bar must be mounted no more than 2” below the bottom of the front window seal and be no more than 4” in diameter. Must have 6” between front bar and center of firewall on a fresh car. Front bar cannot be attached to the firewall at any time. ALL DOWN TUBES MUST BE BEHIND DASH BAR, STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN AND ON FLAT PART OF FRAME. CAN NOT GO TO BODY MOUNT BOXES. NO KICKERS TO REAR HUMPS. NOTHING OUT OF REAR DRIVERS COMPARTMENT. No grater blades, metal plates or tubing on exterior of body (driver & passenger doors).

3. Halo bars are allowed. Can be attached to the bar behind your seat or could be run to the frame but it would be counted as one of your down tubes. There must be 6” minimum distance (gap) from halo bar and the top of your rear window bar….Nothing can be attached to halo bar

4. This is not mandatory but we encourage everyone to put a steel plate between the cage and front driver and passenger doors. Thickness of metal is up to the driver. Must be securely attached to the cage, this is for protection not reinforcement.

FRAME

1. DO NOT REWELD ENGINE CROSS MEMBER SEAMS OR ANY OTHER BRACKETS ATTACHED TO FRAME OR SHEET METAL under hood or trunk. NO CONCRETE!!! DO NOT WELD FACTORY HOLES UP; ALL FACTORY HOLES MUST BE OPEN FOR INSPECTION OF FRAME.

2. You cannot alter frames in any way other than specified in rules. Do not add, crease or reshape frames.

3. You may run one (1) wire or chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of the car behind back tires/wheels. You may put a bolt with a stamped flat washer thru frame to hold it together. Only one (1) per wheel opening. DO NOT weld the washer. (Pinning of frame)

4. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.

5. All trailer hitches MUST be totally removed.

6. Attachment of lower front sub frame to body, can use one chain on the left and one chain on the right, 3/8” or smaller and 12” in length, must run vertically and you can weld one link on each end to the unibody and to the frame. No excessive welds must be mounted between the bumper and the bumper side of the front strut.

7. NO WELDING THE K MEMBER TO THE BODY, YOU ARE ALLOWED TO REMOVE THE FRONT BODY MOUNT SPACER AND SUCK THE BODY DOWN TO THE K MEMBER

BUMPERS

1. Bumpers may be an aftermarket replica or may be reinforced inside or behind an end to end. You may weld the outer chrome of the bumper to the inner skin of the bumper. Nothing else can be welded to outer chrome. You cannot alter the angle of the bumper. Anything coming out of the bumper during race will be cause for disqualification. 13” of point and must contour from frame to frame and must be stock appearing on pointy bumpers. (the curve of point must start at each frame)

2. You may have a 6" long 3" wide 1/4" thick bumper support bracket, mounted to the back side of the bumper on the outermost side of the unibody. ½” welds. You may hard nose by removing the factory bumper shock and cutting off square, no shortening allowed.

3. No front bumper straps to core support or all thread. No extra metal added.

SUSPENSION

1. Stiffness of suspension will be left up to the discretion of the driver. NO OTHER METAL ADDED!

2. Homemade tie rods, steering shafts, lower ball joints (may be an after market Joker style bolt in or you may weld in a screw in ring no more than 1/2 inch bigger than ball joint, no added metal), and after market front struts are permitted, no solid rear axles, must utilize what rear suspension your vehicle came with from the factory.

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

1. ANY ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION MAY BE USED IN ANY FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CAR, BUT MUST BE MOUNTED IN A STOCK POSITION. Carburetor and distributor swaps are allowed.

2. Chained, welded, or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must meet approval of officials.

3. Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from the driver compartment. And may not reinforce vehicles.

4. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. Inspection personnel must approve all mountings, lines, and fittings.

5. No aftermarket or homemade cradle or extreme cradle or pulley protectors. No added metal to the engine or transmission at all besides the carburetor protector listed below.

6. No carburetor protector outside the intake area.

7. No aftermarket or homemade attachments to rad. Core support or fire wall. Nothing outside of the normal/factory type attachment points.

8. You may flatten the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt the firewall. Do not reinforce the firewall/cowl. Do not beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the firewall/cowl in any way. This is for header clearance.

9. Any drive shaft/half shaft or U joint may be used. Welding of the drive shaft is permitted.

GAS TANKS

Battery and gas tank must be tight when coming through the inspection line or you won’t be inspected.

1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed. A METAL BOAT TANK OR HOMEMADE METAL TANK must be mounted in the rear seat area and bolted down with metal straps. Other types of installations will not be allowed. NO GAS CANS with hoses duct taped. A Marine (boat) tank or an official approved homemade tank is mandatory. All tanks MUST be covered with a rubber cover. All tanks MUST have a secure cap. All lines and fittings MUST be leak proof and meet approval of Officials. Electric fuel pumps are permitted but MUST have shut-off within reach of the driver. NO MORE THAN ten (10) GALLONS OF GAS IN TANK.

2. Mounted in the center of the back side area.

TIRE/Wheel

1. Black and round rubber, no bigger that 16” any wheel

If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t assume that you can.

IF YOUR FRAME OR K-MEMBER IS LOADED OR REWELDED THEN YOU WILL LOAD WITH NO CHANCE TO FIX

ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

Consi/Feature Repair Rules:

Patch Plates:

All Consi/Feature Cars will be allowed 6- 4"X6"X 1/4" patch plates. These plates must be purchased from Top Notch Promotions. You may use as you see fit, but must stay in one piece with identifying mark/marks showing, if you cut off any part of the plate you loose the part you cut, it cannot be utilized in any way. You are allowed a 1/2" weld and plates must have 1" gap between them. NO EXCESSIVE WELDING. Drivers MUST run a heat or consolation race to qualify for patch plates.

9 Wire:

All Consi/Feature Cars will be allowed 10 spots, 4 loops per spot sheet metal to sheet metal. 4 spots cage to frame. NO BUNDLED WIRE. NO WRAPPED FRAMES. NO CABLE ALLOWED.

Welding of frame seams, kinks, and rips must use a patch plate. NO BODY SEAM WELDING OR PATCHING AFTER HEAT RACE. DO NOT ABUSE THIS RULE.