Almost Stock Class

1st- $3,000

2nd- $2,000

3rd- $1,000

4th- $500

5th- $250

Mad Dog $500

Highest Placing Out of Town Driver $250

Almost a Stock Class 

The rules below are additions to our current rules to allow cars from surrounding shows to compete. Call with questions on specific modifications.  

• 6 Patch Plates Total on all Fresh or Pre-ran Cars. 4”x4”x1/4” or 6”x6”x1/8” max size plates to accommodate from other shows.

• 12” wide 1/8” thick outside door plate allowed on drivers front door only and must stay within the door seams. No Full door plates, or extra thick ones. 

• OEM Crossmembers or 2”x2”x1/4” max single straight piece of square tube is allowed. 

• Watts Swaps are allowed, Factory control arms only, no shortening, no reinforcing.  They must be 2 separate brackets, and may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to the tow package and bolts may not stick through the body. Brackets may not strengthen the frame or body and may not extend into the gas tank protector. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS. LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount the lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 6” long max per side of frame may be used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame in the factory flat surface of the rear box like it would be on a pre 1998 fomoco product, we will no longer allow brackets to weld into the dog legs in any shape or form.  Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame.

• If you choose not to watts swap and stick with the watts link suspension, you will be given 2 extra patch plates total to use from the Middle of the car back. Middle of the car starts at the body bolt located under your driver/passenger seat

• Front upper A-arm swaps are okay, but must still attach and function as factory oem part. (example. Gm uppers on Fords)  *Be aware of front bumper height as that rule will not change

• If front flap is cut to pull down a pre-ran they may not be re-welded, cars with crush box tabs that are cut and re-welded will not be allowed to run. Only your patch plate can be used to cover the front tab only to reattach the box to the rail.

• Motor/transmission and suspension rules remain the same as stated in the rules below unless otherwise state above and MUST BE followed.

General Rules

• Any Year American factory production passenger car allowed, NO Imperials, imperial sub-frames, suicides, hearses, trucks, SUV’s, vans, truck/car hybrids, x- frames, Checkered cabs, or limos are allowed.

• All cars must be completely stripped of all glass, plastic, and cloth pieces and swept clean of debris.

• If the rules don’t specifically say you can or can’t do it, but don’t specify.  Call and ask before you do it. If we must sit and contemplate on an “interpretation” of a rule and hold up the inspection line, you will be asked to load it.

• Anything found intentionally done outside of the rules, AUTOMATIC load with no chance to fix it. ( ie. Frame too short, bigger plates than specified that your allowed, hidden plates, frame seam welds)

• Only the driver is allowed in the inspection barn and must always remain in his car unless asked by an official to get out.

• You will get one initial trip through inspection, and then max of 2 post inspection trips to fix your inspection list. Fix it right the first time, don’t make us be the bad guy.

• All cars will be sticked and impounded after the Re-tech is over. You will need to be fueled up, hood bolted down, and track ready once given a stick.  No one will be allowed in the impound area except registered drivers.

BODY:

1.  No body seam welding, patching, plating, or welding of the body in any form unless it is stated in the rules or okayed in writing.

2. No body creasing or shaping allowed.

3. Patching is limited to the area of the seat, battery, or trans cooler mounting surface.  Same thickness material as OEM per that car. Leave the rust, 1” max overlap. 12 – 5/16” bolts or 12- 1” welds per patch. This is not to patch a rusty car for strengthening, this is for safety reasons only.  Anything excessive will be removed, even if that means you must relocate your equipment. If your back seat area is too rusty to mount a gas tank safely, you must mount it to the cage in the area permitted per the cage rule section.

4. Doors May be Welded 5 on 5 off Vertical seams only. Do not weld Horizontal Seams (Above Windows, rockers) Exception: Drivers Door can be welded Solid on vertical Seams only, Not the A or B pillar.

5. Front Window bars only are allowed for safety.  2”x ¼” Flat steel only with one cross connection point.  Window bars may not extend 6” past the top edge of the window cowl, same goes for the roof. Welded or bolted.

6. Allowed 5- 3/8” bolts per fender, no higher than 3” above the wheel lip of the fender.

7. Aftermarket gas and brake pedal allowed, can be on one plate but must not be oversized with no kickers or braces to the firewall or trans tunnel.

8.  2 batteries max allowed per car, mounted on the floor sheet metal only. No oversized full floor length battery boxes.

9.  Electric fuel pumps allowed, mounted in a safe location with a on/off switch

10. Fuel tank may be mounted to the floor or the cage but keep safety in mind. Tanks must have a shut off valve.

11. You will be allowed 1 interior door plate on the front driver and passenger front door. This plate will consist of flat ¼” max thickness metal, it can only sit inside the interior door jamb opening where the weatherstripping attaches to and cannot extend above the cage side bar. This may not protrude through the body in the jamb in any direction.  NO other doors will be allowed a door plate interior or exterior.

BODY MOUNTS:

1.  All body mounts, factory rubber pucks, and steel bushings must remain in place and unaltered unless stated otherwise.

2. You may change 6 total body bolts of your choice. Your radiator support and trunk all-thread will NOT be given to you. Those will Count toward your 6.

3. You must maintain a 1” gap on your changed body mounts.  3” max OD Round metal or rubber spacer. Cannot be welded to the frame.

4. ⅝” Max diameter bolt or threaded rod, No longer than 6”. 3”OD x 1/4”thick size washers max

5. Plates/washers must be run inside the frame like they came from the factory. You’re replacing the factory bolt with a new bolt. No pining of the frame with these bolts.  IF any bolt is found to be welded or double nutted, you will replace that bolt with 9 wire. No exceptions.

6. If you’re using any of your allowed body mount changes to change your Front or Trunk all-thread, please refer to the Trunk and Core Support Sections

Frame: 

1. No altering, creasing, welding, buffing, grinding, or painting of frames in any shape or form unless stated otherwise.  Watch your over spray when you paint your cars.  A whole frame rail covered from over spray will not be a legitimate excuse.

2. All Factory frame holes must remain open, no stuffing or capping of frames.

3. No Cold tilting, no cutting of tabs or frame welds, and no covering up tilting with your crossmember brackets allowed.  Frames will be checked thoroughly for this, including spring pockets.

4. No shortening of Front or Rear frame rails, besides squaring off the front to make a square mounting surface for your bumper.  No relocation or shortening of core support bracket, or mounting tab. Metric Lincolns may be cut to 1” in front of the forward most core support mounting tab. Do not abuse this!

5. Front Core support mounting bracket and tab must stay in OEM location and be completely intact.

6. Dimpling or notching of rear frame rails is allowed, but do not weld your notches or dimples back shut for any reason.

Bumpers:

1. Bumpers must be an OEM loaded or an aftermarket replica bumper, must conform to an OEM style bumper, including but not limited to degree of angle, max point from frame mounting point to tip,height of construction, width, no crazy deep points. Do not make us make a determination for you, use your better judgment!!! Must be a factory style bumper, no homemade pointies. We all want to go home at night.

2. Front bumper must not exceed 28” to the top, measured at the point.

3. Bumpers are allowed to be hard nosed, or shock mounted. If using a shock/bracket, it must be the shock/bracket OEM for that Year, Make, and Model.

4. If hard nosed, square off frame only for flush mounting. (Covered in Frame Section) You must also remove the factory shock/mounting bracket. On 74-76 Chevys this includes the cups, if you choose to hardnose you must remove the whole cup.  

5. If using a factory shock/bracket, they must remain in factory position and the shock may be collapsed and welded. No shock or bracket is to extend beyond factory mounting position.  You May weld your bracket to the frame within the first 5” of the frame.  No forming of the bracket, leave it factory.

6. Hard Nosed may use 3”x 5”X 1/4” flat plate welded flat on your frame and to the back side of the bumper.  Must butt up to the back of the bumper and contact only ONE side of the frame. Top, bottom, or outside.

7. Rear Bumper may be any American made bumper of your choice, or a piece of box tube, 3”x6” max.  Rear frame height will be measured at the rear body mount hole at the rear of the car, no lower than 15”.

8. The factory OEM (for that make, model, and year) rear shock/bracket must be used.  No hard nosing of the rear bumper. Shocks May be collapsed and welded.

9. Two bumper straps per side to hold the rear bumper onto the frame.  4”x 1/4” Flat steel max, welded on the first 4” of the frame max.  This is to help hold your back bumper on.

Suspension/Steering:

1. All suspension components front, and rear must remain stock OEM or OEM replacement (No aftermarket replacement parts) for the passenger car that’s allowed within this rule set unless stated otherwise. That means springs, tie rods, spindles…. Etc  

2. Front upper control arms may be swapped out but must remain the same Make.  Ford to Ford, GM to GM, etc... Ball joints must bolt in like a factory, no welding. May trim them to fit, but whatever you trim you must discard. 

3. You may weld down your front upper control arms only with 2 pieces max of 2”x2”x1/4” flat steel per upper control arm. One in the front and one in the back. Anything found excessive you will lose the a-arm straps all together.

4. No gearbox adaptors, run the gear box or rack that bolts directly to your frame/cradle.

5. Aftermarket Steering Shafts are allowed.

6. Rear Coil Springs must remain oem Rear springs. May be swapped out for another passenger car Coil spring.

7. Rear leaf springs must remain OEM for that make and model and are not allowed any fastener to help strengthen them.

8. Rear control arms may be swapped but no welding and no shortening of them. NO WATTS SWAPS!!!!

9. Any automotive or aftermarket rear ends, braces must stay 5” from the frame.  No add on fixtures, bracing or such after inspection, you will be stripped of all winnings. 

10. You may weld brackets on your housing for your control arms but these must be factory brackets cut off another housing.  The upper ears may be aftermarket replacement, but nothing excessive.

11. You are allowed one 5/16 chain per side to hold your rear suspension height. No rear All-thread.  Chain may loop around (not go through) frame once and be bolted back into itself

12. You Must have Functioning Brakes, 1 wheel front or rear. 

CAGE:

1. All cage material must be no bigger than 4” pipe or 6” square tubing max. 

2. You’re allowed a 6 point cage. 2 side bars, 1 dash bar, 1 back seat bar, 1 Gas tank protector

3. Side bars are 60” long max, must be minimum 8” off the floor, and welded to sheet metal only.

4. Front dash and Rear seat bar must be mounted within the 60” side bar rule, and may not contact any sheet metal or engine components.  Mount them safely and appropriately.

5. Gas tank Protector(MOUNT) can be max 24” wide, only mounted to the back seat bar, can touch rear sheet metal (no pressure, sheet metal may not be beaten back) but not connected in any way.  You will be allowed a fuel cell protector halo to protect your tank.  Must attach to the top side only of the Gas tank Protector,  24” wide max, must be mounted 8” from all sheet metal, must be straight up and down, can not extend any higher than the cap on your fuel cell (no extended necks on the fuel cell, be realistic here), and can only have two 8” long 3” wide max gussets to the GP only.  You guys asked for this for safety purposes, try to use it for strength and you will cut it out completely.  

6. Rollover bar must be vertical, attach to side bars, and only be gusseted to the rear seat bar. 1 gusset per side and bolted to the roof in 2 spots Max

7. One down tube is allowed per side, to the sheet metal only, and CENTERED in the drivers/passenger door.  Down tube must not attach to frame, and you must not beat the body sheet metal down on the frame and then weld your down tube in.

8. Any cage gussets must remain inside the 4- point cage

Core Support:

1.  Radiator must be in a stock position. Spray foam allowed, keep inside core support.

2. Any automotive type of radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are LEGAL.

3. No homemade radiators allowed.

4. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.

5. One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.

6. DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.

7. Factory condensers Or ⅛” flat steel Rad guards (must be approved by Top notch promotions to be allowed) allowed, only may be bolted with ⅜” store bought bolts no longer than 1.5” with store bought hardware no larger than 2” OD or wired in 6 places.

8. Free Floating Core Support Spacer is 4” tall max, 2.5” square tube or round pipe max.

9. No oversized radiator holders or mounts. Your old options are factory mounting hardware for that Car, (2) 3/8 threaded rod with two 3"wide straps welded or utilize 1 3/8” bolt with store bought washer and nut to attach to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap, or ratchet straps to hold radiator in.

10. 5/8” all thread max at core support. 5 store bought washers, nuts at 3 5”x1/4” washers, if you choose this as one of your 6 body mounts.All washers and plates must be Free Floating.

Trunk:

1.  Trunk lids must be OEM for that make, and model.  No sheet steel.

2. Must remain in factory position, but hinges may be removed.  Speaker deck must remain intact and may not be manipulated.

3. Trunk lid must have two 6” inspection holes, or one 12”.

4. If you wish to change the body mount in the trunk, all thread may run up through the trunk lid, 5/8” max, 1” body spacer,  washer must remain inside the frame, allowing 3 nuts, 6 stamped washers, and 2 5”x5” max plates per all-thread.  Remember, these count towards your 6 total if you change them.

5. You're allowed to fasten the trunk lid down in 8 places max.  If all thread is used in place of body mounts and runs through the trunk lid this will count as 2. 9 Wire or 3/8 bolts max and ½’ stamped store bought washers max. Bolts must go through the drip rail and trunk lid only, bolting sheet metal to sheet metal. No added metal, no angle iron.

6. Trunk lids may be tucked or dished but the speaker deck must remain in its factory position.

7. Quarters must remain upright and in factory position. No shaping or creasing of the quarters allowed.

Hood:

1.  Hoods must remain Factory OEM for that make and model and in factory position

2. Hoods may be fastened in 6 places total, if you have all thread in your core support through your hood, those count as 2.

3. Hood may be fastened with 5/8 bolts max.  4x4” max for flat plate under the hood welded to fender, 2”x2”x4” angle max if butted back-to-back on the top side. Do not weld the angle iron together, bolts only!!

4. Minimum 2 holes cut in the hood are required, and you are allowed 8- 3/8” max bolts to bolt the sheet metal back together.

Engine/Transmission

1.       Any engine or OEM transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 6” of the original motor and transmission mounting. Engine cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.

2.      Aftermarket bell allowed, (steel or aluminum) bolted on with pump bolts only, NO added supports, no welding to the case, no dust covers. Tranny protectors, braces or mid plates not allowed. No aftermarket tail  housings. You may plate the bottom side of your pan but nothing between the pan and the trans case. If running a stock factory case bellhousing, you will be allowed a skeleton transmission brace, attached through the bell housing bolts and the tail shaft housing bolts. See picture at bottom of rules for clarification.  This in no way can be connected to or in contact with the crossmember in any shape or form or connected to  the body in any shape or form.  (See pictures below) The brace on the tail shaft may not extend below the tail shaft housing.

3.       Engine cradle is limited to a simple front plate and lower cradle ( NO SIDE BARS, NO MID PLATES) nothing past the center of the block

4.       Header protectors are allowed but may only be attached to the headers only with only one bar to attach from header to header. May not use this as kickers to butt up against the firewall.  Nothing excessive, use judgement. 

5.       No Metal Fabricated Fan Shrouds.  All Plastic, cardboard, or any material unless noted “Fan Shrouds” will need to wait to be put on until after inspection and before re-tech.  Anything Found illegal under the shroud will result in Disqualification

6. Your oil and engine pan may be plated, but no full-length skid plates connecting the two.

7. Factory Rubber motor mounts only (79-90 ford crown vic, or 71-96 GM car lower rubber mounts) no aftermarket mounts allowed.  You will be allowed a plate under your factory rubber motor mount to space your engine up if necessary. ½” thick, 4”x6” flat plate max.  If applicable an extension off the back of the factory engine cradle only will be allowed, ¼” flat steel only, 8”x8” max. (Cadillac’s, old iron fords, etc..) Any questions on mounting a SBC in a Chrysler, contact Trevor 618-314-6906  This is an extension, not for you to plate the top of your engine cradles. 1 chain allowed per side ran from your cradle/engine to your rubber motor mount only, not the frame.

8. Your firewall may be cut out to accommodate your engine.

9. Trans crossmember must remain OEM, no square tube and contact the transmission in the factory mount area.  You may weld two 6” long pieces of 3”x 1/4'” max angle to the frame to mount your crossmember. Flat part of the frame, inside layer only. Must remove the factory bracket if you choose to use the angle to mount your crossmembers. The crossmember must be centered on the angle iron.

10. Any driveshaft allowed.

11. Oil and transmission coolers allowed

11. Fuel and transmission lines must be properly assembled. If deemed unsafe you will fix it.

Wheels/Tires:

1.  Any Oem factory rim 16” max is allowed to be used. Small or full centers but must have a factory face.

2. Foam filled and bead locked tires are allowed, but bead lock patterns must be mounted on the frame side of the rim.

3. Outside of the rims are limited to bead stiffeners only and must not go past the factory bead lip of the rim, 2” wide max. No full rim, or bead protectors.

4. Solid tires are allowed, follow factory rim guidelines above.

9 Wire:

All Cars will be allowed 10 spots, 4 loops per spot sheet metal to sheet metal.  4 spots cage to frame.  NO BUNDLED WIRE.  NO WRAPPED FRAMES.  NO CABLE ALLOWED.   

Welding of frame seams, kinks, and rips must use a patch plate.   NO BODY SEAM WELDING OR PATCHING AFTER HEAT RACE.   DO NOT ABUSE THIS RULE.