2026 Pro Stock Rules Team Show

2026 Pro Stock Rules Team Show

DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice!  This is a 0 Tolerance show, do not show up excessively built. NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letters/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame; we will not even inspect your car. - Strip/Remove all materials down to metal shells, which include all glass, plastics, carpets, fabrics, moldings and such. Remove all decking in wagons FRESH CARS ONLY.

Any American made production car or station wagon except Chrysler Imperials, no trucks, suvs, vans, or such.  All body components must be directly bolted up only. Must be factory hardware or equivalent in size.  No hoods for trunks, or trunks for hoods. GM to GM, Ford to Ford, Chrysler to Chrysler etc…

BRAND SPECIFIC RULES:

Metric GM, Ford, Lincoln, And Mercury

You are allowed a 6” x 22” x 1/4” thick flat, (Means no Tepee or Angles) arch plate and it MUST BE CENTERED and CONTOURED on the wheel side of the hump. 3 Plug weld holes no bigger than 2” and no welds bigger than ½" to attach hump plate to frame.  It is not allowed to attach the hump plate to the body.

Metric Ford, Lincoln and Mercury

You are allowed to cut the 3 tabs at the box to tilt with the tabs being rewelded over like they came from the factory, ½’ weld max.  8” core support spacer allowed. Must be VERTICAL and cannot run through the support. 03 up please follow 03 section.

Metric Gm

You may Tilt your car at the cross member by 1 Single pie cut with a single ½" weld, no plate may be added besides cross member mounting per rules below.

MOPAR

You are allowed a 8 leaf spring pack, 5 Clamps per leaf pack, use as you wish front or back of rear differential, no duct tape, no wire, no chain to be used, just 5 clamps. Factory spring thickness(5/16ths”) and width per year of Chrysler. 2” STAGGER ON SPRINGS. If running a pinch frame style Mopar, YOU MAY ALSO CHANGE YOUR 4 FRONT SUB/K FRAME BOLTS to 1” diameter and suck sub/k frame to body. If you chose not to change leaf springs and keep them factory, you may utilize the 1976 and prior sedan hump plate rule.

1976 and prior sedan

YOU ARE ALLOWED A 6” x 22” x 1/4” THICK FLAT ARCH PLATE, (Means no Tepee or Angles) . MUST BE CENTERED and Contoured ON THE HUMP AND ON THE WHEEL SIDE OF THE HUMP. 3 Plug weld holes no bigger than 2” and no welds bigger than ½" to attach hump plate to frame.

Frame Welding: Non pitched cars will be allowed to weld from the firewall side of the front upper control arm bracket top frame seam to the firewall. This is to allow metrics to cut and tilt and old iron to repair frame seams that were missed at the factory or such. DO NOT ABUSE THIS, it will be hard to fix in the inspection line!!!

1976 and prior station wagon

Rear leaf springs must remain factory thickness and width per leaf. You may have up to 8 springs with 2” stagger, no doubling main leafs. 5 clamps total per pack. Rear 4 body mounts behind rear axle may utilize 5/8” threaded rod with 3 store bought washers, nuts and 2 5” max washer ¼" thick per rod and extend thru roof, cannot be nutted above and below roof sheet metal, plate, washer and nut must be on top of roof metal.

Rust Repair Rules

1. Frame peace of mind repair plate. Must be utilized on the interior side of the rear frame rail, this cannot wrap the top or bottom of the frame, from the center of the hump rearward toward the rear bumper. This will be an overlay plate, do not cut out and weld in, this must lay over the existing frame and weld in with ¼” wide weld bead max, no plug welding.  This plate cannot be folded or doubled over itself and what you cut off you lose. DO NOT GRIND OR PAINT THIS PLATE.  All cars can receive this plate. 

2. Pre 1977 body patch will consist of Two 4”x12”x1/8” thick flat repair plates. This cannot attach the body and the frame together, the body and cage together or the frame and cage together. This plate must be utilized from the B pillar and rearward to repair a body mount location, a c pillar, a window lip or a dog leg and can attach with a ⅛” max weld bead or 8 5/16” self tapping screws with no nuts and washers.  At no point can this plate extend forward to the front of the car from the B pillar. What you cut off you lose, and you cannot fold the patch over itself to double it up. 

3. Top Notch Promotions will supply the peace of mind frame repair plate. This will be the only plate that will be allowed or utilized, if you do not utilize a Top Notch Plate it will be removed.  You have until June 10th 2025 to request the peace of mind repair plates. You may only use 1 repair method. All repairs must be approved via a text message to 6183146906 and topnotchpromoteam@gmail.com. You will need to include  your name, car and pictures.  If you abuse these repair rules it will be an automatic load!!!!

BODY:

1.       No body seams may be welded. No metal may be added. You will cut more than you welded.

2.       No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed.

3.       BODY CREASING IS LIMITED TO Front Fenders and REAR QUARTER PANELS ONLY.

4.       Fenders may be bolted together. Max of 10- 3/8” BOLTS with 2” od store bought washer, 4 of these may be utilized to bolt the lower rear quarter to the truck floor outboard of the frame rail. ABOVE THE FENDER WELL, no further than a hand width from wheel well opening.

      5.   Doors may be chained, wired, or welded. When welding the doors, 6in on 6in off all the way around. 3”x1/8” strap or ½” filler rod.

DRIVER SAFETY:

1.      The Driver's front door can be welded solid around the exterior door seam with 3”x1/8” flat metal strapping. 

• If choosing to use an outer door skin, it may not extend any further forward or rearward than 6” past the exterior door seams on the drivers front door and can be ⅛” thick flat plate, or you can choose to use an interior door plate consisting of flat ¼” max thickness metal on the front driver side interior door opening, it can only sit inside the interior door jamb opening where the weatherstripping attaches to and cannot extend above the cage side bar. This may not protrude through the body in the jamb in any direction.  You can only use one method on the drivers front door.

2.       All passenger doors must be welded 6 inches on 6 off. You can choose to use an interior door plate consisting of flat ¼” max thickness metal on the front passenger side interior door opening, it can only sit inside the interior door jamb opening where the weatherstripping attaches to and cannot extend above the cage side bar. This may not protrude through the body in the jamb in any direction.  You can only use this method on the Passenger front door. NO other doors will be allowed a door plate interior or exterior.

3.       2 batteries max, bolted to the floor or welded to the cage, must be covered. Battery boxes may not contain a full floor plate, nor have any down bars or gussets to the cage, body bolts or drivetrain.  These cannot have more than a 4” lip that runs up the firewall area.

4.       Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection.

5.       Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.

6.       Hoods must have a 4x4" min. hole cut on each side of Carb. Bolting hood sheet metal is allowed using 8 - 3/8 bolts and 3/8 store bought washers max. No welding bolts, washers, nuts or sheet metal.

7.       Hoods may only be secured shut in 6 spots Max by bolting, 4 strands of #9 wire max, 1 strand of chain, 3/8 chain, bolt and nut max. No welding of chain or wire.

8.       If the bolting hood is shut you may use 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” max angle iron back to back welded on. If using an aluminum hood, you may use 2 3/8” store bought bolts and hardware to secure angle iron to the hood, aluminum hood only, per hood angle. Or you may weld 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” angle down the inside of the fender under the hood in 6 spots and run a 5/8 bolt 8” long max with a 5” max outer diameter washer for hood plates. Sheet metal to sheet metal only for any of these methods. Maximum of 6 spots to secure the hood. If using a core support body bolt to secure the hood, it may be 1” threaded rod and extend 6” above the upper part of core support.  These count toward your 6 hood bolts.

9.       If you are wiring hood shuts a 1” inside diameter store bought washer may be welded to sheet metal for wire to run through.

10.   No welding, bolting, wiring, taping or chaining of body unless stated.

11.   No adding metal or any other material to strengthen the body unless stated.

12.   Front Windshield area must have a chain, wire or bar. 2 spots of wire or chain or 2 Flat bars max ( 2”x 1/4”). No more than 6” of bar may overlap onto the body or windshield cowling. If needed, you can utilize a 2”x6”x1/4” thick flat strap to attach your window bar, this can not be in continuance of the original 6” overlap onto the body and cannot connect to drivetrain or cage in any manner.  Bars may connect together in 1 spot only. Must not interfere with the drive train at any moment before, during or after the show. 

13.   Rear window opening on sedans only may utilize a 2”x2”x1/4” rear window bar welded or bolted 6” on roof line and 6” on truck lid, no further than 2” behind front drip edge. Wagons may use a 4” wide ¼” strap to weld from roof line to tailgate, no more than 6” of weld on roof or tailgate.

14.   Fresh Sedagons are NOT allowed.

15.   NO RUST REPAIR BESIDES  MOUNTING SEAT, BATTERIES, FUEL TANK, AND PEDALS.  BOLT OR WELD OEM THICKNESS MATERIAL WITHIN REASON TO MOUNT THEM SAFELY.  NOT UP FOR DEBATE!!!! IF YOU WANT A CLEAN CAR, BUY ONE.

TRUNK:

1.       You can weld trunks 6” on 6” off like the doors with max 4” wide by 1/8” thick flat plate or bolt trunk shut. You may use 2”x2”x1/4”x 6” max angle iron back to back welded on. If using an aluminum trunk, you may use 2 3/8” store bought bolts and hardware to secure angle iron to the trunk, aluminum trunk only, per trunk angle, or you may use 14 ½” bolts with store bought washer to secure trunk edge to trunk drip edge lip. There is only one option, weld or bolt. Not both.

2.       You may crease the quarter panels. Quarters must be vertical, cannot be squeezed and sat on top of frame rails. Horizontal trunk pan outboard of the frame rail must stay the factory width.  Lower quarters can be rolled under and bolted through the trunk pan only in four locations but those will count towards your 10 fender bolts.

3.       Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. 2,  8” inspection holes in the trunk lid prior to inspection.  If you come up with no inspection holes, we will make them for you and you will not be happy.

4.       Bolting Trunk sheet metal is allowed using 8 - 3/8 store bought bolts and 3/8 store bought washers/nuts max per trunk lid. No welding bolts, washers, nuts or sheet metal.

5.       The 2 body mounts just behind rear end may extend thru the trunk lid and utilize a 5” washer max. 5/8” threaded rod only. Bottom nut and plate must remain inside the frame like from the factory.

6.       Wagon tail gate can be welded 6” on 6” off like the doors with max 4” wide 1/8’ flat plate.

RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT:

1.       Radiator must be in a stock position. Spray foam allowed, keep inside core support, all excess will cause all to be removed. Keep it clean folks.

2.       Any automotive type radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are LEGAL.

3.       No homemade radiators or radiator supports allowed.

4.       No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.

5.       One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.

6.       DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.

7.       Factory condenser or 32” wide by 1/4" thick mesh radiator protector or 1/8" PLATE TYPE WITH DESIGN CUT INTO IT.  You may use 6 1” welds or 6 ⅜” store bought bolts with store bought washers. Do not attach to Frame or Bumper.

8.       Core Support Spacer MAY be Welded to the topside of the frame mounting tab. Must run Vertical. 3”x3”x1/4” 8” max spacer all models (can not run spacer up through the core support or underside of mounting tab)

9.       (2) 3/8 threaded rod two 3"wide straps welded or utilize 1 3/8” bolt with store bought washer and nut to attach to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap to hold radiator in.

10.   1” allthread max at core support. 5 store bought washers, nuts at 3 5”x1/4” washers. None of these washers may be welded to the frame, spacer or core support.

BODY MOUNTS:

1.       5/8” max diameter body bolts, 6” max unless otherwise stated, washers and nuts must stay inside of the frame, no “pining”.  You must use a hex or allen headed bolt for body bolts, no threaded rod except for the core support mounting location.

2.       Body spacers can be 3” max diameter and must be round. No square tubing for body spacers except at the core support. Body spacing must maintain 1” gap from the firewall mounting bolts to the rear body mount at the rear bumper. No Exceptions.

3.       5” washers max on top side of body, 3”x1/4” max washer inside of frame. 2 stores bought washers and nuts per bolt unless otherwise stated.

4.       Any unibody model car may add 4 pieces of 5/8” threaded rod and extend thru the trunk lid. These cannot exceed 24” in length and must remain vertical. You will get 1 5” max washer on top side of trunk lid, and 1 3” washer on underside of body and 1 3” washer on top side of body, 3 store bought nuts and washers.

5.       You may not add any body bolts, if it did not come from the factory with a bolt, you will lose it.

6.       All body bolts and spacers must be floating, no welding allowed.

FRAMES:

1.       No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame. This means no restubbing/clipping cars. Automatic load

2.       All factory frame holes must be left open.

3.       Anything from number one of frame rules done to frame found will result in disqualification. NO FIXING, NO COMPROMISES, NO OPTIONS…You WILL Be LOADED!

4.       Sub frame cars cannot be tied together. If you want to run a full frame car, buy a full frame car, don’t build one.

5.       CORE SUPPORT AND CORE SUPPORT MOUNTING TAB MUST REMAIN IN FACTORY LOCATION. You may cut the front frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. Do not abuse this rule.

6.       Rear frame rails may not be shortened.

7.       NO Frame shaping other than you can dimple your rear rails in 2 spots per rail behind the rear differential.

8.       98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, and may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to the tow package and bolts may not stick through the body. Brackets may not strengthen the frame or body and may not extend into the gas tank protector. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.

9.       98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount the lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 6” long max per side of frame may be used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame in the factory flat surface of the rear box like it would be on a pre 1998 fomoco product, we will no longer allow brackets to weld into the dog legs in any shape or form.  Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.  No EXTRA gussets allowed to connect your bracket to the package trey or frame. If converting from watts all factory watts brackets will have to be removed, no exceptions. 

10.   You may run a store bought 3/8” chain from frame rail to frame rail behind the rear axle at the body bolt location just behind the rear end. One loop around each frame rail and bolted to itself with one ½” max bolt.

SUSPENSION:

1.       Upper A-Arms are allowed to be welded down by using 2 pieces of 2”x3”x1/4” per arm (1 front & 1 Rear), No welding on the wishbone mount of the a-arms to the frame or a-arm/. Do not abuse this rule.

2.       If you weld anywhere else on A-arm, or use a bigger strap than allowed; you will cut it all off and run working suspension, do not abuse this rule.

3.       Tie rods must have factory appearing ends, No heims! You may brace the center tube with angle or pipe. Aftermarket is fine but must have a factory type end!

4.       Factory spindle swaps are ok, ford to Chevy etc. GM factory lift spindles are ok (No fabricated spindles)

5.       You may Replace ball joints, screw in or aftermarket are ok, no bolts or heims. You will be allowed to weld in a screw in ball joint ring, single pass 1/2” max weld with no added metal. You may “tack” joints in.  Ball joint rings must not be larger in width and height than ½” larger than the ball joint housing. 

6.       You may change A-arms from new style to old style A-arms. Must bolt in factory location, no welding allowed to swap, no square body mounts on bubble cars.  Factory a arm Center bars may be welded back in place like factory if removed for a arm fitment. No welding center bar to shock tower.

7.       No All-Thread Shocks in front.

8.       YOU MAY DOUBLE Coil SPRINGS for stiffness. OEM or OEM replacement only (no ski, homemade, or aftermarket springs) Do not weld springs together.

9.       Any trailing arm, factory or loaded, no longer than a factory length, may be shortened. Must utilize one bolt on each end as a factory.

10.   Sway bars must be bolted in factory position per year of vehicle being run, may be flipped and bolted to the lower control arm only. ½’ bolt max size. You must utilize the factory frame mounting bracket and bar bushing. If you have to replace the bolts, you must use a ⅜” store bought bolt, washer and nuts with a bolt no longer than 1”. This bracket cannot be welded to the frame.

11.   You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs).

12.   You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end.

13.   All suspension and steering must remain stock (unless a modification is stated). No steering box adapters allowed. Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strengthen the car in any way at any time. NO HYDRAULIC STEERING OF ANY KIND!

03 and newer:

Factory aluminum engine cradles in 2003 and newer cars may NOT be changed. No homemade cradles. Layover cradle allowed (SMW, Budde Cradle, Pedtke Built, NLR, etc…..) ⅜” thick max. Layover cradles must maintain a minimum gap of 1/2” away from frame rails at all times, can bolt through the aluminum cradle in 4 spots, and be pinched in between the frame mounting bolts and upper strut tower support bracket. Factory upper and lower control arms for 03+ fords. Factory steering rack and pinion for 03+ fords. You may utilize the spindle and ball joint rule above. YOU MAY NOT TILT A 03+ ANYWHERE.

REAR END:

1.       Any automotive or aftermarket rear end braces must stay 5” from the frame.

2.       Slider drive shaft is permitted.

3.       MUST HAVE BRAKES!!!

4.       You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. (2 CHAIN LINKS WELDED TO FRAME MAX) *NO OPENING CHAIN LINKS TO GAIN LENGTH* Standard ⅜” store bought chain only with no extended links.

5.       Rear all thread shocks are allowed, not to be utilized as a body mount

TIRES:

1.       Any Tires black and round. 16” max diameter

BUMPERS:

1.      Front Bumpers must be an OEM loaded or an aftermarket replica bumper, and must conform to a OEM style bumper, including but not limited to degree of angle, max point from frame mounting point to tip,

height of construction, width, no crazy deep points.  Rear bumpers will be allowed to use a piece of 2”x8”x1/8” tubing with no added metal, a non loaded factory oem bumper, or a oem replica rear bumper that does not exceed 10 gauge metal and non loaded. Do not make us make a specification determination for you, use your better judgment!!!  Must be a factory style bumper.  We all want to go home at night.

2.       Front Bumpers may be hard nosed or utilize a factory shock for your make, model, and year specific car in factory position. If you hard-nose a bumper, factory shock/bracket must be removed, and you are allowed a 3”x6”x1/4” flat plate on one side of the frame per frame rail to connect the bumper to the frame. If utilizing the factory shock, you are allowed a 3” wide ¼” flat strap butt welded to the back of the shock and to the front of the shock cup or frame. You may collapse and weld your shock tube solid. No welding on frame beyond the first 6”.  Rear bumpers are allowed to be attached on all 4 sides of the frame, all plates must be exterior of the frame, ¼” thick max, and nothing beyond the first 6” of the frame and cannot weld or attach to the body.  If you have questions about this please call!

3.       If your car did not come with a shock, you are not allowed to utilize a shock, you will be allowed to follow the 3”x6”x1/4” flat plate rule #2 above.

4.       YOU MAY BOLT A CHAIN FROM BUMPER TO BUMPER SHOCK on THE FRAME 3/8 MAX or weld a piece of strap (2”x2” x ¼”) from frame to bumper 1” overlap on each end. This is to aid in keeping bumpers off the track.

5.       Bumpers can be no higher than 26” from the ground to the top tip of the bumper or lower than 15” from the ground to the bottom of the frame at the rear body mount. This rule will be strictly enforced, no swapping tires after inspection.

SAFETY CAGES:

(4 POINT WITH 32" GAS TANK PROTECTOR AND 4 DOWN BARS. Your Down tubes must be welded to the top side of the frame only with no gussets and will be allowed to be placed between the front door inner weatherstrip seam and the rear seat body bolt. 72” max overall cage measurement. Side bars Cannot protrude thru the firewall and cannot attach to the wheel well, c pillar or the rear of the rear interior door jamb seam. 6” max.  NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!!! NO part of the cage can come in contact with the drivetrain at any point. There must be a 4” gap from the dash bar to any part of the transmission and or engine. No cage components can be inside of the doors, Must be inside the passenger compartment.

1.       All cars must have a safety cage and roll over bar.

2.       A 4-point cage is required. Your cage must have a dash bar, a seat bar, and (2) side bars that extend past your dash bar. The side bars must not be welded to the rear humps and cannot protrude thru the firewall.

3.       Roll over bar cannot be more than 6” behind the driver's seat and must be in line with your rear seat bar. Roll over bar can attach to the sidebar only or rear seat bar only.  Roll over bar can only be bolted to the roof in 2 locations. 5/8” bolts max, with 1 5”x1/4” max washer, 2 store bought washer and 1 nut. Your 2 mounting locations cannot exceed a 4”x4” area off of the halo onto the roof.

4.       The cage can be welded to sheet metal only, the only part of the cage that can attach to the frame is the 2 down tubes. You must have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and two (2) door cross bars.

5.       Cage can be made out of 6” pipe or box tube MAX.

6.       All down tubes must be straight up and down off the sidebar and attached to the TOP side of the frame only, The beveled edge is considered the side, not the top.  This is for Drivers safety, not to strengthen your car.

7.       Gas tank protectors are allowed and must attach to rear seat bar only with the exception of one crossbar may extend to the side bar no further rearward than 12” from the back seat bar....max 32" wide and may be bolted thru package frame with 2 ½" bolts 5” max long, 4 store bought washer, 2 store bought nuts and 2 5”x1/4” washers, you may not weld tank protector to the sheet metal. Your tank protector may have a halo that extends no further than 24” above the tank protector and no wider than 32”. May not be bolted or gusseted to anything besides the gas tank protector itself. No gussets from halo bar to the gas tank protector or from the halo bar to the gas tank protector halo.  Must Remain inside the passenger compartment.  Must Be VERTICAL, If you do not understand, ask.

GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS:

1.       Stock gas tank MUST be removed from the original position and mounted in the rear seat area and secured. All tanks must have a secure cap. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must be mounted to the cage and secured.

2.       All lines must be run inside the car, not along the frame underneath.

3.       All Tanks, Trans coolers, and batteries must remain inside the dimensions of the cage provided. If your cage is too large, you will have to cut it and you may be required to relocate your cooler, battery, or tank.

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION:

1.       Any engine or OEM transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 6” of the original motor and transmission mounting. Engine cannot protrude into the passenger compartment before the race.

2.      Aftermarket bell allowed, (steel or aluminum) bolted on with pump bolts only, NO added supports, no welding to the case, no dust covers. Tranny protectors, braces or mid plates not allowed. No aftermarket tail housings. You may plate the bottom side of your pan but nothing between the pan and the trans case. If running a stock factory case bellhousing, you will be allowed a skeleton transmission brace, attached through the bell housing bolts and the tail shaft housing bolts. See picture at bottom of rules for clarification.  This in no way can be connected to or in contact with the crossmember in any shape or form or connected to  the body in any shape or form.  (See pictures below) The brace on the tail shaft may no extend below the tail shaft housing.

3.       Engine cradle is limited to a simple front plate and lower cradle ( NO SIDE BARS, NO MID PLATES) nothing past the center of the block

4.       Header protectors are allowed but may only be attached to the headers and halo. Nothing else. Carb /Intake halos may be utilized with attachment points on the front plate of the engine and the center 4 intake bolts to the cylinder head.  The halo cannot extend rearward no further than the back carb mounting bolt on your intake. Carb or header halos cannot attach to the hood, Do not abuse this or you will lose it for everyone. 

5.       No Metal Fabricated Fan Shrouds.  All Plastic, cardboard, or any material unless noted “Fan Shrouds” will need to wait to be put on until after inspection and before re-tech.  Anything Found illegal under the shroud will result in Disqualification.

6.       Aftermarket Motor Mounts are legal, Must have rubber or poly mount.

7.       Only the lower engine mounts may be welded to engine crossmember only. You may use two 1/2" thick 6x6 spacers to raise the engine.  These 6x6 spacers are just that, not extra plates.  The spacers must be centered under the mounts themselves to raise them as intended.   If you need more than ½” to raise the engine to clear steering components, it may not exceed the rubber mount area. You may extend the back of the engine cross member but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only(example SBC in Caddy, Mopar)  No welded motor mount or plate can connect to frame, frame seam or spring pocket. Excess of this plate will be an automatic load.

8.       No chains allowed to hold the engine in if you are using a cradle and aftermarket mounts. If you use factory clams or cups or factory mounts, you may weld 3 chain links to the engine cup and 3 links to the mount, do not weld to frame or you will lose this.

9.       Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. They must be secure and contained and covered inside the car, for the driver’s protection.

10.   NO valve cover protectors allowed, Spark Plug protectors ARE allowed but can not come in contact with the firewall, cage bar, or the trans tunnel.

11.   BOP adaptors are allowed but can only be big enough to mount the trans on. Anything excessive will be cut.

12.   Pulley protectors are allowed, but sway bar must HAVE 1/2" GAP AT INSPECTION

13.   HOMEMADE Gas Pedals and Shifters Are Allowed, but may not reinforce the car in any way. No full floor plates.

14.   OEM crossmember or 2”x2”x1/4” square tube, straight from inner surface of belly rail to inner surface of belly rail, no contoured or “bowed” tubing. This means nothing on the bottom, top or outer of the frame.

15.   You can utilize the factory trans mounting tab or you may weld a piece of 3”x3”x6”x1/4” angle to frame to aid in attaching crossmember. This must be on the transmission side of the frame rail and you must cut off all factory mounting tabs. Your Crossmember must be centerd on the transmission mount tab on the interior frame rail. 

All cars will be allowed fresh 2 4”x4”x1/4 square repair plates in any place, cannot attach drivetrain to cage or body.

Consi/Feature Repair Rules: TBD upon drivers discretion.