Rules

Almost a Stock Class

General Rules

· Any Year American factory production passenger car allowed, NO Imperials, imperial sub-frames, suicides, hearses, trucks, SUV’s, vans, truck/car hybrids, x- frames, Checkered cabs, or limos are allowed.

· All cars must be completely stripped of all glass, plastic, and cloth pieces and swept clean of debris.

· If the rules don’t specifically say you can or can’t do it, but don’t specify. Call and ask before you do it. If we must sit and contemplate on an “interpretation” of a rule and hold up the inspection line, you will be asked to load it.

· Anything found intentionally done outside of the rules, AUTOMATIC load with no chance to fix it. ( ie. Frame too short, bigger plates than specified that your allowed, hidden plates, frame seam welds)

· Only the driver is allowed in the inspection barn and must always remain in his car unless asked by an official to get out.

· You will get one initial trip through inspection, and then max of 2 post inspection trips to fix your inspection list. Fix it right the first time, don’t make us be the bad guy.

· All cars will be sticked and impounded after the Re-tech is over. You will need to be fueled up, hood bolted down, and track ready once given a stick. No one will be allowed in the impound area except registered drivers.

BODY

§ No body seam welding, patching, plating, or welding of the body in any form unless it stated in the rules or okayed in writing.

§ No body creasing or shaping allowed.

§ Patching is limited to the area of the seat, battery, or trans cooler mounting surface. Same thickness material as OEM per that car. Leave the rust, 1” max overlap. 12 – 5/16” bolts or 12- 1” welds per patch. This is not to patch a rusty car for strengthening, this is for safety reasons only. Anything excessive will be removed, even if that means you must relocate your equipment. If your back seat area is too rusty to mount a gas tank safely, you must mount it to the cage in the area permitted per the cage rule section.

§ Doors May be Welded 5 on 5 off Vertical seams only. Do not weld Horizontal Seams (Above Windows, rockers)

§ Front Window bars only are allowed for safety. 2”x ¼” Flat steel only with one cross connection point. Window bars may not extend 6” past the top edge of the window cowl, same goes for the roof. Welded or bolted.

§ Allowed 5- 3/8” bolts per fender, no higher than 3” above the wheel lip of the fender.

§ Aftermarket gas and brake pedal allowed, can be on one plate but must not be oversized.

§ 2 batteries max allowed per car, mounted on the floor sheet metal only. No oversized full floor length battery boxes.

§ Electric fuel pumps allowed, mounted in a safe location with a on/off switch

§ Fuel tank may be mounted to the floor or the cage but keep safety in mind. Tanks must have a shut off valve.

BODY MOUNTS

§ All body mounts, factory rubber pucks, and steel bushings must remain in place and unaltered unless stated otherwise.

§ You may change 6 total body bolts of your choice. Your radiator support and trunk all-thread will NOT be given to you. Those will Count toward your 6.

§ No changing out body pucks when changing your body mounts. They must remain factory and in place, even the metal bushing.

§ Passenger Cabin Body bolts will be 1/2” max. No longer than 6”. 3” x 1/4” size washers max

§ Plates/washers must be run inside the frame like they came from factory. You’re replacing the factory bolt, with a new bolt. No pining of the frame with these bolts. IF any bolt is found to be welded or double nutted, you will replace that bolt with 9 wire. No exceptions.

§ If you’re using any of your allowed body mount changes to change your Front or Trunk all-thread, please refer to the Trunk and Core Support Sections

Frame

§ No altering, creasing, welding, buffing, grinding, or painting of frames in any shape or form unless stated otherwise. Watch your over spray when you paint your cars. A whole frame rail covered from over spray will not be a legitimate excuse.

§ All Factory frame holes must remain open, no stuffing or capping of frames.

§ No Cold tilting, no cutting of tabs or frame welds, and no covering up tilting with your crossmember brackets allowed. Frames will be checked thoroughly for this, including spring pockets.

§ No shortening of Front or Rear frame rails, besides squaring off the front to make a square mounting surface for your bumper. No relocation or shortening of core support bracket, or mounting tab.

§ Front Core support mounting bracket and tab must stay in OEM location and be completely intact.

§ Dimpling or notching of rear frame rails is allowed, but do not weld your notches or dimples back shut for any reason.

Bumpers

§ Any factory American made front bumper is allowed. Bumpers may be loaded on the inside and plated on the outside. Replica bumpers are allowed but must resemble a factory loaded bumper. No stacking of bumpers, only factory loaded bumpers are allowed to be flipped upside down. Front bumper must not exceed 26” to the top, measured at the point.

§ Homemade/replica bumpers must be no taller than 8” and resemble a factory bumper. Points must spread out over 32” minimum and cannot be bigger than 8” measuring from the very back edge of the bumper. No spear type points. Call before your weld it on if you’re concerned.

§ Bumpers are allowed to be hardnosed, or shock mounted. If using shock/bracket, it must be the shock/bracket OEM for that Year, Make, and Model.

§ If hardnosed, square off frame only for flush mounting. (Covered in Frame Section) You must also remove the factory shock/mounting bracket.

§ If using factory shock/bracket, they must remain in factory position and the shock may be collapsed and welded. No shock or bracket is to extend beyond factory mounting position. You May weld your bracket to the frame within the first 5” of the frame. No forming of the bracket, leave it factory.

§ Hardnosed may use 3”x 5”X 1/4” flat plate welded flat on your frame and to the back side of the bumper. Must butt up to the back of the bumper and contact only ONE side of the frame. Top, bottom, or outside.

§ Rear Bumper may be any American made bumper of your choice, or a piece of box tube, 3”x6” max. Rear frame height will be measured at the rear body mount hole, no lower than 15”.

§ The factory OEM (for that make, model, and year) rear shock/bracket must be used. No hard nosing of the rear bumper. Shocks May be collapsed and welded.

§ Two bumper straps per side to hold the rear bumper onto the frame. 4”x 1/4” Flat steel max, welded on the first 4” of the frame max. This is to help hold your back bumper on.

Suspension/Steering

§ All suspension components front, and rear must remain stock OEM or OEM replacement for the passenger car that’s allowed within this rule set unless stated otherwise. That means springs, tie rods, spindles…. etc.

§ Front upper control arms may be swapped out but must remain same Make. Ford to Ford, GM to GM, etc... Ball joints must bolt in like factory, no welding. May trim them to fit, but whatever you trim you must discard.

§ You may weld down your front upper control arms only with 2 pieces max of 2”x2”x1/4” flat steel per upper control arm. One in the front and one in the back. Anything found excessive you will lose the a-arm straps all together.

§ No gear box adaptors, run the gear box or rack that bolts directly to your frame/cradle.

§ Aftermarket Steering Shafts are allowed.

§ Rear Coil Springs must remain oem rear springs. May be swapped out for another passenger car rear Coil spring.

§ Rear leaf springs must remain OEM for that make and model and are not allowed any fastener to help strengthen them.

§ Rear control arms may be swapped but no welding and no shortening of them.

§ 31 spline max rear ends only. Gears/Spools okay, No axle savers, No fully braced rear ends, Pinion brakes okay, Simple back brace allowed (nothing past the spring mounts, 4” wide brace max). Axles will be pulled after the heat if deemed necessary.

§ You may weld brackets on your housing for your control arms but must be factory brackets cut off another housing. The upper ears may be aftermarket replacement, but nothing excessive.

§ Your allowed one 5/16 chain per side to hold your rear suspension height. No rear All-thread. Chain may loop around (not go through) frame once and be bolted back into itself

CAGE

§ All cage material must be no bigger than 4” pipe or 6” square tubing max.

§ You’re allowed a 6 point cage. 2 side bars, 1 dash bar, 1 back seat bar, 1 GP

§ Side bars are 60” long max, must be minimum 8” off the floor, and welded to sheet metal only.

§ Front dash and Rear seat bar must be mounted within the 60” side bar rule, may not contact any sheet metal or engine components. Mount them safely and appropriately.

§ Gas tank Protector can be max 24” wide, only mounted to back seat bar, can touch rear sheet metal (no pressure, sheet metal may not be beat back) but not connected in anyway, and may not have any halo or uprights off the GP. This is simply a way to mount your gas tank safely.

§ Rollover bar must be vertical, attach to side bars, and only be gusseted to the rear seat bar. 1 gusset per side and bolted to the roof in 2 spots Max

§ One down tube is allowed per side, to the sheet metal only, and centered in the drivers/passenger door. Down tube must not attach to frame, and you must not beat the body sheet metal down on the frame and then weld your down tube in.

§ Any cage gussets must remain inside the 4- pint cage

Core Support

§ Radiator must be in a stock position. Spray foam allowed, keep inside core support.

§ Any automotive type of radiator can be used. Aluminum Radiators are LEGAL.

§ No homemade radiators allowed.

§ No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.

§ One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.

§ DO NOT MOVE CORE SUPPORT.

§ Factory condensers only may be bolted or wired in 6 places.

§ Floating Core Support Spacer is 4” tall max, 2.5” square tube or round pipe max.

§ (2) 3/8 threaded rod two 3"wide straps welded or utilize 1 3/8” bolt with store bought washer and nut to attach to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap to hold radiator in.

§ 5/8” all thread max at core support. 5 store bought washers, nuts at 3 5”x1/4” washers, if you choose this as one of your 6 body mounts.

Trunk

§ Trunk lids must be OEM for that make, and model. No sheet steel.

§ Must remain in factory position, but hinges may be removed. Speaker deck must remain intact and may not be manipulated.

§ Trunk lid must have two 6” inspection holes, or one 12”.

§ If you wish to change the body mount in the trunk, all thread may run up through the trunk lid, 5/8” max, washer must remain inside the frame, allowed 3 nuts, 6 stamped washers, and 2 5”x5” max plates per all-thread. Remember, these count towards your 6 total if you change them.

§ Your allowed to fasten the trunk lid down in 8 places max. If all thread is used in place of body mounts and runs through the trunk lid this will count as 2. 9 Wire or 3/8 bolts max and ½’ stamped store bought washers max. Bolts must go through the drip rail and trunk lid only, bolting sheet metal to sheet metal. No added metal, no angle iron.

§ Trunk lids may be tucked or dished but the speaker deck must remain in its factory position.

§ Quarters must remain upright and in factory position. No shaping or creasing of the quarters allowed.

Hood

§ Hoods must remain Factory OEM for that make and model and in factory position

§ Hoods may be fastened in 6 places total, if you have all thread in your core support through your hood, those count as 2.

§ Hood may be fastened with 5/8 bolts max. 4x4” max for flat plate under the hood welded to fender, 2”x2”x4” angle max if butted back-to-back on the top side. Do not weld the angle iron together, bolts only!!

§ Minimum 2 holes cut in the hood are required, and you are allowed 4 -5/16” bolts/ 8 washers/4 nuts max per cut out to bolt the sheet metal back together.

Engine/Transmission

§ Any Engine is allowed

§ Oem transmissions only. No aftermarket housings, tail shafts, bells, or mid plates allowed

§ Your oil and engine pan may be plated, but no full-length skid plates connecting the two.

§ Lower cradle and front plates only. NO halos, Dist. Protectors, side bars, or valve cover/spark plug protectors. Header protectors only allowed if they are connected to your headers only, 4”x4” max.

§ Factory Rubber motor mounts only, no aftermarket mounts allowed. You will be allowed a plate under your factory rubber motor mount to space your engine up if necessary. ½” thick, 4”x6” flat plate max. If applicable an extension off the back of the factory engine cradle only will be allowed, ¼” flat steel only, 8”x8” max. (Cadillac’s, old iron fords, etc..) This is an extension, not for you to plate the top of your engine cradles. 1 chain allowed per side ran from your cradle/engine to your rubber motor mount only, not the frame.

§ Front plug must stay in line with or in front of the upper ball joint, do not slide your engines back into the cabin. Your firewall may be cut out to accommodate your engine.

§ Trans crossmember must remain OEM, no square tube. You may weld two 6” long pieces of 3”x 1/4'” max angle to the frame to mount your crossmember. Flat part of the frame, inside layer only.

§ Any driveshaft allowed.

§ Oil and transmission coolers allowed

§ Fuel and transmission lines must be properly assembled. If deemed unsafe you will fix it.

Wheels/Tires

§ Any Oem factory rim 16” max is allowed to be used. Small or full centers but must have a factory face.

§ Foam filled and bead locked tires are allowed, but bead lock patterns must be mounted on the frame side of the rim.

§ Outside of the rims are limited to bead stiffeners only and must not go past the factory bead lip of the rim, 2” wide max. No full rim, or bead protectors.

§ Solid tires are allowed, follow factory rim guidelines above.